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Learning to sew was one of the best decisions of my life. I went from struggling to shop for my size, to designing clothes that were made for me.
As sewists, we want our creations to look polished. Not necessarily mass-produced like we see in stores, but not handmade-looking either.
The truth is, you can make your garments look 10x more professional with a few simple tricks.
If you are new to the world of sewing, welcome. You’ve stumbled upon a gem of a hobby that does wonders for your wardrobe and soul.
I am proof that you can learn how to sew from zero experience. This post will give you the basic knowledge to get started.
Without further ado, here are 11 mistakes to avoid in your sewing.
Mistake 1: Not pre-washing fabric
For those unfamiliar with pre-washing, it’s washing your fabric before you cut and sew your garment.
There are a few reasons why this is a good practice:
- Your fabric may shrink. It’s much better if it does so before you sew a garment out of it.
- It removes extra dye from the fabric that could damage other clothes in a normal load
- It sanitizes your fabric before you start working with it.
- If you know how to wash and care for your fabric, you will know how to wash the end product.
To prewash your fabric, first finish the raw edges to ensure it won’t unravel in the wash. You can do so with a serger or a zigzag stitch across the raw edges. You do not need to finish the selvage.
I usually refer to the fabric shop’s website for washing instructions. You can also look up how to wash your fabric type online. Common apparel materials like cotton, jersey, linen, or polyester are frequently machine wash cold.
Mistake 2: Not cutting on the grainline
The arrows on your sewing patterns are there for an important reason. They show you how to align your pattern pieces with the grainline.
The grainline is the direction of the fabric parallel to the selvages. Sound confusing? This article by My Golden Thimble explains it well.
Ignoring the grainline can cause your garment to lose its shape. This is the last thing you want after spending hours on a project.
As a general rule, take your time when cutting your pieces. Align the arrows correctly so your project drapes the way it should. This will set you up for success on the rest of your project.
Mistake 3: Not paying attention to seam allowance
Seam allowance is the extra fabric between the stitching line and the fabric edge. It is necessary for strong, accurate seams.
If you were to sew right along the edge of the fabric, it would take very little pulling for your stitches to fall off the fabric. Adding this bit of extra space is crucial to making seams that last.
There are two mistakes you can make with seam allowance:
- Not adding it. This commonly happens when you duplicate a garment and forget to add seam allowance, or if you happen to cut the seam allowance off your pattern.
- Not sewing the correct seam allowance per your pattern’s instructions. If your pattern has a 1/2″ seam allowance, sewing any other size seam allowance will change the fit of the garment.
The solution? Always keep the seam allowance or add it if necessary. Once you determine your seam allowance, sew that exact amount when sewing the pieces together. The lines on the throat plate of your sewing machine will help you do this.
Mistake 4: Using the wrong type of sewing needle
Did you know that different fabrics require different types of needles?
You first need to choose the right-sized sewing needle for your fabric. The larger the size of the needle, the more heavy-duty it is. Lightweight fabrics require a smaller sewing needle and heavy fabrics require a larger one.
The next thing to take into account is the type of fabric you’re sewing. The two main fabric types are wovens and knits. Woven fabrics, like quilting cotton and linen have little to no stretch. Knits, on the other hand, are stretchy.
Sewing needles come in three main types: sharp, ballpoint, and universal. Sharp needles are used for sewing woven fabrics and ballpoint needles are used for jersey and knit fabrics. Universal needles can be used for either fabric.
Needle type is especially important when sewing knit fabrics. If your stitches are skipping, make sure you are using a ballpoint needle. It will glide through the knit fabric easily without snagging it.
These Schmetz universal sewing needles are perfect for beginner sewists. 80/12 is the optimal size for medium-weight fabrics like cotton, linen, and jersey. The universal type will work on both woven and knit fabrics.
Sewing machine needles should be replaced after 8 hours of sewing. As a rule of thumb, I replace my needle every 1-2 projects.
Titanium sewing needles are a great option if you want your needles to last longer.
Mistake 5: Using the wrong thread tension
Sewing machine tension can be tricky to understand as a beginner. It varies depending on your sewing machine and the fabric you’re working with.
Your ideal tension setting will cause the top and bobbin thread to pull equally on each other. If your bobbin thread shows on the top of your seam, your tension is too tight. If your top thread shows through the underside of your seam, your tension is too low.
Do a tension test any time you’re working with a new fabric. I’ve found that the following process works well for me:
- Take a scrap piece of fabric and fold it in half.
- Thread my machine and bobbin with contrasting threads so they’re easy to see.
- Set my tension at a medium level.
- Sew test lines and adjust until my bobbin and top thread tension are equal.
One more word of advice: Avoid adjusting your bobbin tension. It’s best if it remains balanced so that you only have to adjust the tension settings on your machine.
Mistake 6: Forgetting to backstitch
Thread won’t stay secure unless you lock it into place. This is why backstitching at the beginning and end of your seams is a must.
There are three situations where you shouldn’t back stitch: When you baste stitch, gather stitch, and finish darts.
Basting stitches temporarily keep fabric pieces together, similar to pins. Once the pieces are sewn, the basting stitch can be removed. Since this is a temporary stitch, it shouldn’t be backstitched.
Gathering stitches work in a similar way to create ruffles and flowy garments. The fabric needs to move along the threads, so there’s no need to lock it into place. These stitches will also be removed once the pieces are permanently sewn.
Darts, on the other hand, tend to look pointy if you backstitch at the peak. Instead, finish these seams by double knotting the loose threads.
Mistake 7: Looking at the sewing needle instead of the throat plate
Many of us instinctively think that looking where the needle hits the fabric is an accurate way of sewing, but there’s a better way.
The throatplate of your sewing machine has handy lines that mark common measurements for seam allowance and hems. When you focus on lining up your fabric with one of these lines as you sew, you end up with beautiful, straight seams.
The habit of starring down your needle can be a tough one to break. To make it easier on yourself, mark your seam guide line with eye-catching washi tape. It will serve as a reminder as you sew.
Mistake 8: Pushing or pulling fabric through your sewing machine
The feed dogs on your sewing machine feed the fabric as you sew. Your job is to guide the fabric through delicately.
Pulling on your fabric as you sew stretches it, resulting in gaping necklines and wavy hems. It makes your clothes look handmade in an unflattering way.
Pushing your fabric can cause odd bunches in your garment that give a similar effect. You also run the risk of sewing your finger. Get into the habit of gently guiding your fabric instead.
Mistake 9: Skipping pinning
These next three mistakes can be solved with one skill:
Patience.
There is a tremendous difference between my rushed projects and the ones I took my time on. I bet you can guess which clothes get the most wear.
Advanced sewers take their time on projects. They choose 15 minutes of careful prepping over hours of seam ripping, and they are wiser for it.
Always take the time to pin your fabric to keep it from shifting while you sew. Your pins and your iron are your best tools to keep your sewing clean and professional.
Mistake 10: Not finishing raw edges
When I first started sewing, I skipped this vital step in my projects. I’m now afraid to wear these pieces because I doubt their durability.
Finishing raw edges is a must if you want to make clothes you can wear with confidence. Otherwise, your fabric can unravel and ruin the piece completely.
You can easily finish raw edges with a serger or a zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine.
Some patterns require you to finish your fabric edges before sewing the pieces together. This way, you can press the finished seams flat for a clean look.
Alternatively, you can finish the edges of your garments after you sew the pieces together and press them to one side.
Whichever method you use, finish your edges as you go. Don’t wait until your project is done. It is so much easier this way.
Evelyn Wood has a great video outlining the different types of seam finishes you can do to make your garments last.
Mistake 11: Not pressing seams
There’s a saying that “pressing your seams covers your sins.” You can take an imperfect seam and press it into perfection. It’s a key step in making your garments look professional and polished.
Like finishing raw edges, the key is to press as you go. Ideally, your sewing process will look like this:
Sew pieces together → Finish seams → PRESS SEAMS
or
Finish seams → Sew pieces together → PRESS SEAMS
Your pattern will tell which which order to follow. After all these steps are done, then, and only then, should you move on to the next step in your project. Your future self will thank you.
Bonus Tip: Make the sewing process as enjoyable as possible
Rushing through a project for the sake of completing it causes you to miss out on valuable insight. Instead, make it your goal to enjoy the creative process as much as your final product.
There are plenty of ways to make the sewing process enjoyable:
- Listen to your favorite music while you sew.
- Diffuse calming essential oils. I love
Share your thoughts!
For those of you who sew, I would love to hear your thoughts and advice. If you could go back and tell your beginner self one thing, what would it be? And what’s the reason why you love to sew?
I will be creating more sewing-related content in the future. It’s one of my greatest passions alongside improving myself. It’s helped me realize that creating and evolving go hand in hand.
Stay tuned, and happy creating.
O&K
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